Lamu By Night (Tourist Notice, Lamu Island: Please Respect our Islamic Traditions)
I am a blind fish in the Styx.
Writhing through the darkness of this alleyway I clumsy past the scuttling roaches open drains and feet of ancient men who sit in silence, simply, bent and resting in the darkness; past the Arab-art of doorways, past the flaking whitewashed walls that live in negative at night and press their palms against my shoulders. I graze my foreign elbow, stub my tender, sandalled toes again, again, again, and curse the narrowmindedness of architects. A bat eeks out its sonar. But then, this island's assonantal chant: a muezzin's bright Azan, sung far away, invokes a tidal wave of light that floods the square, that shafts and damascenes its lightning down this alleyway at night. All ornate doorways are illumined and each Godly twist of chisel whorls with light. And look, these sullen men in doorways, hunched and hidden, shine in khanzus now and wake and rise and wing along the call-to-prayer's straight torchbeam, as albino bats, perhaps, might leave a cave. Ahead, like tour guides, watch, they lead and fly in numbers to their source - our source - of light. By Stephen Derwent Partington QLRS Vol. 1 No. 4 Jul 2002_____
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